Native
American jewelry has increased in popularity throughout
the 20th century. From the days of the war when soldiers
would buy or trade Native American Indian jewelry of
the southwest as souvenirs, to today’s trading posts where we
see extensive displays of many styles of Native American
jewelry, this American Indian art form has made a name for
itself all on its own merit. From the stylistic works of Navajo
and Hopi
silver to the intricate and beautiful stonework jewelry of the
Zuni
Indian, We will link you to examples, exhibits,
history,
styles and lots of other data about American Indian jewelry.
Today's Native American Jewelry artists are best known for their
gemstone
silver jewelry. Today
Native
Silver Jewelry is some of the most popular silver jewelry
in the world!
Native American Jewelry History
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When
the Navajo people returned to their beloved mesas and canyons
in 1868, their new way of living led to many changes. Among
other things, as they were no longer nomadic, they had greater
opportunity to learn from each other. "The People"
had long admired and used metal ornaments and horse equipment.
They had used brass and copper wire to create bracelets
and coins to fashion buttons. |
Tools
were crude and smiths had to improvise and create their own
crucibles, bellows and emery paper. A smith could have had only
a hammer and a piece of scrap railroad track for an anvil. Silver
coins were melted for use.
By
the 1890s, traders took advantage of a new market
with silversmiths and began selling them tools. Silver
jewelry was used as barter on the Reservation where
money was practically non-existent. Traders took silver
and turquoise jewelry as collateral without giving a specific
value to the piece. Any pawn unclaimed after an agreed
period of time was considered "dead" and the
trader could sell it.
So
began a new and very lucrative way of life for the Native
Americans.
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Most
Navajo silversmiths come from a long line of Native American
jewelry artists in their family, for this is a time honored
trade that is past down from generation to generation. Many
of the artists today, both men and woman, produce Native
American jewelry which is better classified as art that
is worthy of display in museums. Today much Native American
jewelry is displayed in Museums.
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Personal
adornment found in the southwestern area consisting of Arizona
and New Mexico is thought to date back to the first half
of the 1st millennium AD and consisted of bracelets made
from a shell carved in the shape of a frog. Also found were
birds and snake motifs in pierced work along with other
jewelry made from shells and covered with turquoise mosaics.
Evidence shows that as far back as the Archaic period people
decorated shells with carvings and/or enamel work. Feathers
and turquoise were the materials available to the Native
Americans for personal ornamentation until the arrival of
the white man, alot of Native American jewelry is heavily
influenced by the Spanish jewelry. |
It
is our understanding that sometime around the 16th century the
Spaniards came to the southwest and at that time the Mexican
people learned how to smith silver from the Spaniards. It is
generally believed that the Navajo Indians didn't actually start
working silver until after their four year imprisonment at Fort
Sumner where they had been taken after their capture by American
forces under the command of Christopher (Kit) Carson in 1863-64.
It was generally assumed that since they had no silver with
them at Fort Sumner that they hadn't started working in silver
yet. However, as Raymond Friday Locke in his book The Book of
the Navajo points out, "people do not take valuables, such
as silver jewelry, to prison with them." It is reported
that the Navajo "Captains" wore silver belts in 1795
and then again in 1855, W.W. H. Davis said he saw the Navajos
wearing "many valuable belts of silver." So whether
they started working silver back in the mid 1800's because they
were impressed with the silver buttons that the Mexican soldiers
wore on their uniforms (as I have read) or they had been working
silver since the 1700's, basically it isn't an ancient art to
them. What we do know is that the Navajo are reported to be
the first Indians to learn the skill of silversmithing and make
modern Native American Jewelry from the Mexicans. A Navajo
man named Atsidi Sani or Old Smith apparently learned to work
silver from a Mexican after his return from Fort Sumner and
then taught this to his sons. Then four years later, Atsidi
Chon or Ugly Smith, the first Navajo known to make a conche
belt moved to Zuni where he reportedly taught the Zuni Indians
the craft of silversmithing. Twenty-seven years later a Hopi
Indian named Lanyade learned this skill.
Today's Native American Jewelry
Today
Native American Jewelry is still very popular and is
probably one of the most popular forms of silver jewelry and
gemstone silver jewelry. Native American jewelry can
be found world wide and is collected by peoples of every nation.
Native American jewelry is being made in traditional
forms and contemporary forms today. In fashion, both old style
Native American Jewelry and modern Native American jewelry are
popular. Native American artists are probably most famous for
their gemstone
silver jewelry, especially Turquoise
Jewelry. One of the most famous styles of Native American
Jewelry is Navajo
Silver Jewelry. Another famous style of American Indian
Jewelry is contemporary and Zuni Inlay
Jewelry. You can learn a lot more about Native American
Jewelry and American Indian Jewelers in our Native
American Jewelry Facts page. All styles of this wonderful
sterling silver jewelry is popular today and will be considered
classics in the future.